The India Chronicles Pt 1
Hordes of India wannabees flock the bars and restaurants at night dressed in clothes that look alien on them. Swapping suits and watches for patterned skirts and the token dreadlocks they all seem to suddenly acquire. Attempting to escape whatever nightmares they dreamt at home, and slip on the skin of a new person, new personality, new persona... spiralling downwards in a hangover of drugs and excess... If the path of truth was in excess we would all have died in our twenties.
The old hippies sit quietly in the background, smoking their chillums, sipping their drinks, dressed in normal clothes and talking of their childhoods and imparting tales to anyone who will listen. They sit there, content as such. Laughing at the hippie-sters, groaning while overhearing a woman speaking of the wonderful healing she experienced at some guru up in the mountains obscured from view.... ordering more drinks and not checking the watch at all.
I sit there wrapped in nostalgia. Many of my friends are still here. Many have left. Many have died. The place feels almost the same though it looks very different. It is people that make a place, ultimately. I still like it. I like sitting at Santosh Bar and listening to tales... i drift off in my own thoughts when they start repeating themselves... I like sipping drinks and watching the cows walk past and the Nine Bar Crowd coming down the hill as high as kites... I like eating at Chinatown and talking to the waiters... I like driving down to Vagator beach for a midnight swim.
In all this chaos and conformity there are a few souls worth sharing your time with. There are a few worth sharing a lifetime with.
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Waves curled and spread their white foam onto the glistening sand. We sat, perched atop a restaurant roof, watching the final minutes of sunlight... The mighty fire sinking behind a wall of water... following his silver path.
Einar, Jorgen, Sverre, Simon & Martine all gathered around a table, sitting on cushions, drinking coctails, playing cards, listening to Cluster, smoking cigarettes, resting and reflecting.
Just before we made it to the beach we were all sat on similar seats at the German Bakery playing Texas Hold Em all afternoon, battling it out for a 100 rupee note (which I won) and eating and sipping beers. The days in Goa have been lazy ones... but thats what I needed. To not have any pressing appointments.. but to just plan your day according to your strength or mood.
Its been a wonderful first week. The wedding will be soon, the mountains a little later... the jungle.. a lot of good things to look forward to, but I am only looking as far forward as lunch or dinner here.. because I am enjoying not needing to bother.
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Ragged bodies washed up last night at the German Bakery... with hungry stomachs and weary heads... a day spent playing pool on the beach and sipping cocktails was enough to almost justify bed at 7pm. Instead we sat under an amber lamp on mats on the floor, by a low lying table, ordered food and played some poker.
After Calamari with Garlic Butter Sauce, Chilli Prawns, and various beers were emptied we headed for the familiarity of Primrose to play some pool while listening to Can and Popol Vuh. Instead of heading home at 1am Einar and I decided it better to waltz down to Shapora for one final beverage at Santosh and a couple of omelette sandwiches made so expertly by the fine young men at the side of the road. We chatted for a good hour while watching the lunatics embroiled in their bliss, then headed home up the snaking road for a final chat and bed.
I now sit at Bethany Inn's internet cafe, listening to Blixa Bargeld, writing this. The only plans for tonight are to head to the beach, watch sunset, drive some Go-carts and probably head down to Shapora for a bit of a rave-up since its Simon & Martine and Sverre & Jorgens last night. Einar and I will stay on in this "inemuri" like state and wait on Heidi & Paul and the legendary John Hung from Taiwan... all coming this week!!!!
I think I will go lie down, charge my Ipod, then head down to the beach for a swim and sunset!
Cheers!
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Perched beneath tangled branches and the weakest of lamps we sat and played cards. Rich folds of marble-like ripples ran through the inky sky. A distant incense stick danced wildly. Music flowed and retreated as the wind turned through.
Einar was on the receiving end of a 3 hour massage as the rest of us cuddled around tables and drank beers. We had just been at the Go-Cart track and arrived at the German Bakery sore and elated. After his pleasant ordeal was over we all headed to My Place for a goodbye meal to Simon & Martine and Jorgen & Sverre.
We opened a fantastic bottle of wine and sat eating wonderful food for a few hours....entertained by the owner Amore. With stomachs exceptionally full almost everyone went home, but J&S and I headed down to Shapora for a final couple and talks to Simon and Santosh. Then it was back on the scooters, up the hill, into bed, woken up by the departing Danes, fell asleep again, then up once more to say goodbye to the Norwegians... then down to Chinatown to mull over some food.. and soon down to the Market to see if anything takes my fancy!
Glad to hear Arsenal are on top again! Well done lads!








